between storms on the plains

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route 66, oklahoma

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The Flaneur: How Onam Arrived to Fort Kochi

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I was in my guesthouse’s communal toilet smoking my pipe when I first heard the drumbeats.

I was getting stoned and had the vague plan of going for a bicycle ride afterward, a leisurely roll around the streets of Fort Kochi, perhaps down to the fishermen’s wharf, where I could drink coconuts and people-watch under the banyan trees. That was my plan, anyway. But when I heard the drums something inside me woke up, the approaching drum brigade had set me alight.

I rushed downstairs to grab my bicycle. I pedaled past people emerging from their homes, past hurrying women in saris, towards the source of the commotion. When I reached the main street, I halted.

A fat shirtless man with a sun umbrella and an enormous mustache, a veritable king, was marching towards me up the road. Directly behind him were five rotund men painted head-to-foot like psychotropic tigers, all dancing and mashing and stomping along, followed by an assortment of drummers, stilted men and dancing Keralites.

I rolled my bike to the side of the road to watch.

 

Read the rest in Nowhere Magazine.

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hunting season

hunting season

mustang, ok, usa

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the road to Kurikose Elias Chavara village

road to Kurikose Elias Chavara village

the backwaters, kerala, south india

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care for a shark?

care for a shark 2

fort kochi, kerala, south india

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morning street bathers

morning street bath

kolkata, india

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dervishes

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konya, turkey. 2011

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